Maui No Ka Oi: A Midsummer Adventure
Quick Reference
Reason to go: shave ice, the best beaches, health food, equal parts adventure & relaxation, surfing
Where We Stayed: Camp Olowalu, The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas (we saved a ton of money by camping for the first part of our trip- we put the money we saved there into staying at a nice hotel for the last few nights of our trip)
Best Coffee: Choice Health Bar, Lahaina, Maui
Favorite Food: Star Noodle, Lahaina, Maui & Ululani's Shave Ice, Lahaina, Maui
Map: We google-mapped around Maui. There are a ton of other online and print resources to find your way. I like these printable maps from Moon. This map of Maui comes highly recommended.
Time to Visit & Weather: Literally any time. We've been to Maui both in April and June- each month had great weather, even though we were sometimes hot at night in our tent in June. The shoulder seasons, fall and spring, are typically recommended. I love to check Wunderground for weather forecasts.
Emergency #'s & Land Managers: Haleakalā National Park (National Park Service), Makena State Park (Hawaii State Parks), various beach parks (Maui County Parks & Recreation)
Cell Service (AT&T): I lacked cell service east of Paia town and on much of Highway 37, nearing Maui Wines. Service was in and out on the Road to Hana.
Vehicle Needs: We rented a Jeep from Enterprise at Kahului Airport. We liked the space for carrying around beach toys, but most of Maui does not require the extra clearance or all-wheel drive. You can rent a 4x4 adventure vehicle if you want to on Maui's west side.
Activities: visit Maui Upcountry, watch the sunrise from the top of Haleakala, drive the Road to Hana, hang out at Big Beach, enjoy the shops & cafes of Lahaina, surf or SUP at Launiupoko Beach Park or Puamana Beach Park, visit hippie-town Paia, eat all the fruit. Check out this blog to learn about experiencing Maui in one weekend.
Things to Avoid:
- Creating unnecessary trash. Don't buy new boogie boards or styrofoam coolers. Head to Goodwill to buy used toys (remember- everything must be shipped into the Islands. Don't create more waste by buying something you won't take home with you) or rent boogie boards from a surf shop.
- Broken-in car windows. Hide belongings you leave in the car under your seats or with towels to deter thieves.
Aloha! As we near the end of autumn in Oregon and colder temps set in (the leaves have fallen, the mornings are frosty, and my laundry basket is full of flannel), I've been dreaming of somewhere more tropical, warmer, beachier... in my dreams I find myself in beautiful Maui, HI, the Valley Isle. Maui is a place that Kevin and I think of when we want to truly relax. It feels far away, but it's actually a quick and easy flight from the west coast, there is no language barrier, all we need is a swimsuit and slippers to feel comfortable and fit in with the locals, and there are tons of healthy food options.
This past summer Kevin and I moved from the Bay Area to Southern Oregon, and in-between the end of our old jobs and the beginning of our new ones, we needed to chill out and celebrate the upcoming transition. We travelled to Maui for eight days with major plans to sit, sun, swim, surf, and sip all the fresh juice we could find. We crafted a trip that included camping and a ton of free time to give us the flexibility to be spontaneous and follow our whims. The following itinerary shows you six ways to spend full days in Maui maximizing adventure. Mahalo, friends!
Trip Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrival Day. Lodging, Plate Lunch, & Sunsets
Starting a trip to Maui on Hawaiian Airlines is always the way to go. From Portland or Seattle, the flight to Kahului is about five hours, and the flight attendants bring around complimentary Mai Tai's or Pog and Maui Onion potato chips. What a way to start a vacation!
After picking up our rental car, our first stop in Maui is Da Kitchen for plate lunch. The portions are huge, the staff are super friendly, and the kalua pig is salty and tender. After lunch, we shot straight for Camp Olowalu to set up camp. We reserved a beachside tent site, but you can rent cabins, "tentalows," or camp in your car at this rustic retreat. Olowalu is not nearby any restaurants, shops, or a popular beach. But it is quiet (aside from the roosters crowing in the early morning hours), safe, clean, and affordable. Our tent site was spacious and came equipped with a picnic table. We didn't hang out at Camp Olowalu a lot as we stayed pretty busy during the day, but each day we returned "home" to my favorite part of this lodging option: the outdoor showers. Rinsing the salt water off at the end of the day always feels good, but it felt extra special at Camp Olowalu with views of the deep green mountains, sunset-pink clouds, and twinkling stars coming out one by one. You are much closer to nature here than in a typical hotel. Things to consider when booking here: feral cats roam the grounds and beg for food, the aforementioned roosters are quite loud in the early morning, they can run out of hot water in the mornings, you'll need a car for flexibility's sake if you stay here, and wifi is only available near the check-in building. Also- sunsets from our campsite were incredible.
Day 2 - Haleakala Sunrise & Surfing Maui Beach Parks
Haleakala National Park is an example of stark contrast. It's half lush, wet rainforest neighboring the sea and half hot, dry lava rock on top of a mountain. An amazing way to experience this national park is by catching the sunrise from the top of the summit. This activity will take some planning and forethought as the park recently decided to move to a reservation system. Also, it is COLD up there! We had on all of our layers and were still freezing. Even with the cold, waking up early and waiting around in the dark, this experience was 100% worth the discomfort. The sunrise was beautiful, but the experience took my breath away with it's unique magic and building, pastel warmth as the sun comes up.
Tips for Haleakala sunrise:
- Bring warm, cozy layers or your comforter from your hotel room to wrap up in while waiting.
- Go earlier than you think you need to- the drive up the mountain is long and you may get stuck behind slower moving cars.
- Another reason to get an early start is that a ton of people will be there. You'll want to snag a good spot from where to view the big event.
After an early morning spent in the National Park, warm up by hitting the beach and getting some exercise in. Our favorite surf spots in Maui were found along the roadside between Lahaina and Olowalu. We rented surf stand up paddle boards from Maui Mike's Beach House in Lahaina and drove until we found some fun waves to play on. We already surf a bit and teach SUP, so we skipped taking lessons and just headed out. The best spot we found was at Launiupoko Beach Park, on the opposite end from the natural pool made from lava rock. The waves were small and easy to catch, but there is some sharp coral beneath the surface to watch out for. We came back to this beach park three or four times to play in the waves. The Maui Beach Parks are all super cool and FREE- local families hang out all day, surfers catch waves from sunrise through sunset, and everyone picnics throughout the day. They are an awesome hang out spot and we will definitely check out others if we have the opportunity to go back.
Day 3 - Kihei & 'Big Beach'
Kihei is a cute town in south Maui on the way to some of the island's more upscale resorts and one of my favorite beaches ever. There are some neat shops and an open market worth checking out, but we aren't big shoppers and were more intent on grabbing a caffeine fix from Akamai Coffee Company and heading straight for the beach. We also stopped at an ABC Store for cold drinks and snacks for the day. The best beach snack of them all is a poke bowl from Tamura's Fine Wines & Liquors. They have every kind of poke you could imagine and it's all delicious. Ask for a sample if you're unsure- they're happy to give you a free taste to help you decide.
So, Big Beach, AKA Makena State Park, is just that- a BIG beach. But it's beautiful- the sand is soft, the waves are wild, and the beach's backdrop is lightly forested, rather than a view of never ending high rise hotels. You really feel like you're "out there" and actually, you kind of are. There aren't a ton of amenities out here, other than a few port-o-potties, some fruit stands alongside the road and a fish taco truck a short walk away. A lifeguard is on duty at this beach, and the guards will not be shy to warn you about rip currents and dangerous shore break at this beach. With warm sunshine, a bag full of snacks, a view of the islands of Molokini and Kahoʻolawe, I could sun and swim here all day.
Beyond Big Beach, further south and past the large, lovely homes on the King's Highway, the terrain gets darker and less hospitable. Lava fields surround the road, and if you look closely you can spot adorable wild goats hopping around. The road ends in a parking lot at the trailhead to the Hoapili Trail. We didn't actually hike this trail but if we return to Maui, it's high on the list- it's rugged, long, and hot due to the black lava rock.
After a day of exploration around Makena, stop at Maui Brick Oven for amazing gluten free options. We picked up a pizza and ate our dinner at sunset at one of the nearby beach parks. It was the most delicious dinner with the best view! We also tried Monkey Pod Kitchen for lunch one day and enjoyed both the ambience and the food.
Day 4 - Upcountry Maui Day Trip
Upcountry Maui is my favorite part of this island. It's laid back, beautiful, and full of awesome destinations. This day trip is fairly straightforward- wake up and plan for a late start (many of the cool destinations on this drive open shop on the later side... When we went we departed camp early and had to kill some extra time in Kahului before we headed to Upcountry), head into Kahului for coffee and breakfast, and head south from there on Highway 37 towards Upcountry. We stopped at Maui Coffee Roasters for coffee and McDonalds for their spam, eggs, and rice breakfast (Kevin's favorite).
I can't recommend this drive enough. First stop is the amazing Surfing Goat Dairy. In June the farm was lively and loud with the cutest baby goats- a fantastic reason to visit in late spring or early summer! At the Surfing Goat you can take a casual tour of the farm, feed the goats, and try some maui-made goat cheese. Next, make a stop at Ali'i Kula Lavender. Usually one would head to the gift shop last, but in this case, head there first to purchase some warm lavender tea to sip while you wander the gardens. The farm grows several varieties of lavender and offers a winding trail system through a manicured garden with views of west Maui. Find yourself a private bench to breathe deep and de-stress immersed in the smell of lavender or take your time exploring the farm by foot.
By this time it should be past noon, so head off to Maui Wine for a tour and tasting and the Ulupalakua Ranch Store right across the street for lunch. The Hula o Maui Pineapple Sparkling Wine was my favorite- a must-try if you go and highly recommended for mimosas! At Ulupalakua we had Maui beef burgers on gluten free buns and a total blast trying to lasso a statue of a steer in their picnic area. The views here are also incredible. There's one more stop on the way back down the mountain- Ocean Vodka. Take a tour of the farm and distillery, walk the grounds, pet the resident cat, and sip some spirits. It's the perfect way to end a day in Upcountry Maui.
Day 5 - The Road to Hana Day Trip
There are a million resources (this one is pretty good and so is this one) out there detailing the different must-see stops along this famous drive. Our favorites were the Black Sand Beach, Coconut Glen's coconut based ice cream, hiking the Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls, and the Seven Sacred Pools. Check out our map here. I suggest you do your own research to identify what interests you most on this wild drive. We did the trip there and back in a day, but I do wish we had been able to stay there for a night or two (if we do it again, I'd like to stay at Travaasa Hana). Whatever you choose to do, I highly recommend leaving early in the morning. We departed our hotel room in Ka'anapali around 4am and we had the highway almost all to ourselves. I really can't imagine driving the Road to Hana with more cars on the road. Make it an alpine start and you'll be happy you did! One con to starting so early: most of the shops on the way there were closed, so we weren't able to grab coffee and banana bread until later in the morning, BUT we had the side-of-the-road pull-offs featuring waterfalls and amazing views all to ourselves.
Tips for the Road to Hana:
- You'll get dirty (if you do it like we did it)! Don't wear anything you don't want ruined
- The road is actually dangerous- go with an open mind and resist the urge to fit every stop in and feel rushed
- Do the Pipiwai hike through the bamboo forest! It is one of my favorite hikes I've done in Hawaii
- Bring your own snacks and water (especially if you go early like we did and you have a Celiac in the family)
- Bring all of your typical day hike stuff (including, of course, the ten essentials) even if you don't plan on hiking
- Pull over to let the locals pass you - it's polite :)
Day 6 - Exploring Lahaina & Paia Town
I haven't talked about the Westin Nanea, yet. We moved to this new hotel, north of Ka'anapali Beach after staying at Camp Olowalu for several nights. Ready for showers, a pool, and all of the typical hotel amenities after our camping adventures, we were stoked by what the Westin had to offer us. We stayed here for three nights and it was comfortable, fresh, clean, and I'd definitely stay there again.
Lahaina! Lahaina is full of royal Maui history and it was once the capital of Hawaii. Read up on it here. In addition to the history, Lahaina is a great place to walk around, soak in the vibe, shop, and EAT. Our primary reason for wandering through Lahaina on a daily basis was to find coffee and food. Here are our favorites:
- Cafe Cafe Maui for healthy breakfast and lunch fare, fresh smoothies and acai bowls
- Maui Swiss Miss for lattes and early morning access to wifi
- Choice Health Bar for everything on the menu (try the Game Changer Iced Coffee)
- Maui Sugar Shop for gluten free pastry (our favorites were the lilikoi muffins and Brazilian cheese bread)
- Starnoodle for EVERYTHING. We ate dinner in the restaurant and got take-out several times for dinner and took our food to a beach park for a picnic. They have several GF items on the menu. Prepare to wait for a table here (it's worth it- it's bomb)
- Cool Cat Cafe for juicy burgers and a great above-street view for people and sunset watching
- Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice for dessert. Every day.
- Ono Gelato for tropical flavors and an over-ocean deck where you can enjoy your frozen treat.
Paia! Paia is great little town to walk around- full of cute bikini shops, cafes, and an awesome grocery store I wish I had at home. You can visit Paia on the way to or fro Hana, but we just drove over to spend an afternoon there. My favorite stop was the Mana Foods grocery store. It rivaled Whole Foods in every way, and had so many products I wanted to take home with me.
Paia is also home to the Maui Dharma Center. We were surprised to stumble upon it and wish we had timed our visit to participate in a service. Nearby Paia is Baldwin Beach and Hookipa Beach Park. We spent over an hour at Hookipa watching eight or nine honu (sea turtle) pop their heads and fins in and out of the waves, snacking and sunning.
Y'all, thanks for dreaming of Maui with me. This island is one of a kind, and everything about it from the flora, the people, the sky, the wind, the mountains, and the food are seeped in the Aloha spirit. Maui has a million activities to do and gorgeous destinations to visit, but I love it so much not because of what I see and do there, but because of the way it makes me feel. Aloha is alive in Maui, and spending time there teaches me to "Live HI" no matter where I am. Mahalo!
P.S. I didn't write up anything about Kaanapali Beach, but it's a pretty good spot. It's easily accessible and most hotels are along that stretch of sand. Kevin surfed there for an afternoon and we enjoyed strolling the shops in Whaler's Village during the heat of the day. Because of the crowds, I prefer beaching it at Makena State Park over Kaanapali.