Adventure Honeymoon in Iceland Part I: Reykjavik, the Reykjanes Peninsula & Golden Circle
Quick Reference
Iceland is one of those places I can't and won't shut up about. It's mystique might be explained by the folk lore stories of trolls and fairies, the puffy sheep on every green hillside, the turquoise glaciers, waterfalls around every corner, or moody, dark sky- I'm not sure. But I do know that I'd go back in a heartbeat (and am currently plotting my next opportunity to spend a few layover days there). And that every corner of this country took my breath away and energized my spirit. I hope this guide will inspire you to plan your own travel to this magical Nordic island!
This guide to Iceland is part 1 of 2. We travelled through Iceland for 12 days on our honeymoon and spent most of our time on the Ring Road. In this post I'll cover our two days and two nights in Reykjavik, one full day and night on the Golden Circle, and one day and night on the Reykjanes Peninsula.
Reason to go: an inclusive city that's welcoming to all, a truly international scene, stunning natural landscapes, hot springs, easy driving tour, Nordic cuisine
Where we stayed: Loft Hostel, Reykjavik Campsite, Grindavík Campground, and stealth camping on Highway 365 inbetween Laugarvatn Fontana & Thingvellir National Park. We wanted to stay at Bakki Hostel & Apartments (especially after our day driving the Golden Circle) but they were booked solid! (most of our trip was spent in our camper van, rented from Snail Motor Homes, a family owned business that we can not recommend highly enough!)
Map: We downloaded our driving directions each morning via Google Maps. Lonely Planet's Iceland guide book was our favorite reference and planning tool.
Permits & Reservations: The only reservations we made for our whole trip were for our camper van through Snail Motor Homes, our last night in Iceland spent at Loft Hostel, and entry to the Blue Lagoon.
Time to visit and weather: We visited Iceland in August. In summer, days are long and the temperature hovers around 50-60 degrees F during the day. Check out the forecast here.
Emergency #s and Land Managers: Review important phone numbers and emergency response information here.
Cell service: We relied on access to wifi rather than purchase a sim card. We did just fine, but if you want more information about Icelandic sim cards check out this blog.
Vehicle needs: You can easily get to and from the airport to downtown Reykjavik via the FlyBus. Reykjavik is easily experienced on foot, but there is also an easy-to-navigate public bus system. We rented a camper van from Snail Motorhome Rental and enjoyed the freedom that our vehicle gave us! (I will do a more comprehensive post on the van we rented in my next post on The Ring Road Road Trip)
Activities: visit Harpa, Hallgrímskirkja, Laugavegur and Bankastræti streets, Old Harbour, and any number of eclectic bars in Reykjavik. Soak in the Blue Lagoon and wander the fishing village of Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Drive the Golden Circle and be prepared to stop every five minutes for views, snacks, hikes, hot springs, and horses!
Best Coffee: Reykjavik Roasters
Trip highlights: Laugarvatn Fontana, exploring Reykjavik, the Blue Lagoon, Gulfoss, and stealth camping on the Golden Circle.
What to pack: Layers and rain gear. Here's one blogger's packing list (geared more towards your typical tourist). My personal packing list is a little more comprehensive to account for 18/24 hours spent outside!
Other blogs/information sources for your own trip planning: Gal Meets Glam Iceland trip, Goop Iceland Guide, Young Adventuress Iceland, Expert Vagabond's many posts on Iceland, the Kitchen Paper Iceland by Van
Reykjavik
Reykjavik is the super-cool capital of Iceland (and, fun fact, the northernmost capital in the world). The city itself is beautiful. The homes and store fronts are colorful, quaint, and the downtown is easily walkable. We spent our first night in Reykjavik at the City Campground and our second at Loft Hostel. The campground was huge- the website says it can accommodate 900 campers, and I believe it! It was a bustling place, full of backpackers and road trippers. Every outlet was in use charging phones and laptops, the laundry facilities had a line, and the bathrooms were packed with people getting ready to go out on the town. The community building was hopping with groups playing board games and drinking beers. It was safe, fun, and honestly a little loud- but we would gladly stay there again.
Groceries, Coffee, & Food in Reykjavik:
- When you arrive in Iceland stop at a grocery store to stock up on food. Even if you plan to eat out a lot, grab some snacks as everything is expensive. We really liked the Bonus Supermarket chain (it's supposed to be the cheapest), and there are several in Reykjavik on your way in from the airport as well as in the city itself. We noticed that the stores had varied opening hours, so be sure to check that before you venture out.
- While you're there, try the Skyr yogurt drinks. They are so good and were our favorite snack.
- Eat all of the Icelandic hot dogs and stop at all of the hot dog stands. Be prepared to enjoy your dog with non-traditional toppings! This one was a late night favorite of mine.
- Glo is a hip & cool all vegetarian restaurant with many gluten free and vegan options. One of their locations is easily accessible in downtown Reykjavik. We enjoyed eating here a few times for lighter meals and snacks. The menu changes almost everyday, so you'll never get bored.
- Reykjavik Roasters is another cool vibe institution. Near the famous Hallgrimskirkja church, it attracts locals and tourists alike. It feels cozy and they make a mean latte.
- Ramen Momo, Icelandic Fish & Chips, Sushibarinn, Grái Kötturinn, Kaffitár, and Te & Kaffi all offered tasty meals, a caffeine fix, and feel-good ambience.
Beer, Bars & Booze in Reykjavik:
- To purchase any alcohol in Iceland you must go to a state run liquor store, called a Vinbudin. Before you go, know that bars are really expensive, and our favorite thing to do was fill a cooler with snacks and drinks while relaxing in a park or in our campsite.
- Einstok Icelandic White Ale was my favorite Icelandic beer. Try one- you won't regret it!
- Brennivín AKA "The Black Death" is the Iceland's signature liquor. Try a shot of it if you dare.
- Even though we didn't spend a lot of time in bars (there is too much to see and so many streets to walk!), I think the Reykjavik nightlife is worth a visit for a cocktail or two! Our favorite bars (for people watching and/or drinks are below)
- Mikkeller & Friends- it was super social, we met fellow travelers, and they had a few gluten free options.
- Kaffibarinn and Babalu are classic cafes that turn into happening bars in the evenings.
- Micro Bar offered an incredible selection of beer and was located in a cozy, underground room. It felt secret and hidden!
- Slippbarinn had fancy cocktails near Old Harbour inside the Icelandair Hotel.
- Check out this 2017 article for some of Reykjavik's coolest bars.
The City Itself - Sights & Cool Stuff:
- Walk the whole thing! It's not very big and easily navigable. We used Loft Hostel as our home base and circled out from there. (consider a short walking tour to get the lay of the land!)
- Bankastraeti and Laugavegur are both happenings streets right in downtown that offer shopping, cafes & restaurants. (check out Vogue's shopping guide to Laugavegur here)
- Visit Hallgrímskirkja - the view from the top is picturesque- you can see the whole city!
- We had heard that people rave about the penis museum, but we walked past it and it didn't look worthy of spending our $$ there.
- Consider visiting any number of the many pools in Reykjavik for a soak.
Reykjanes Peninsula & the Blue Lagoon
- The main reason we ventured to the Reykjanes Peninsula was for the Blue Lagoon. We have since learned that there are many reasons to visit this corner of Iceland, but on this trip, we had our eyes on the prize. I actually talked to several people before our trip who said "skip the Blue Lagoon- it's like Disney Land and pretty touristy." I'll admit that it's a little touristy and definitely on the expensive side, but we LOVED it. It offers an otherworldly & magical experience. I would go back in a heartbeat, and we even considered going back a second time at the end of our time in Iceland. The lagoon's facilities are amazing- they have free and silica mud masks, a swim-up bar, modern locker rooms, and a fancy restaurant called Lava (where I ate my first bowl of langoustine soup!). My biggest piece of advice is to book ahead and spring for the Premium Package.
- We camped in the Grindavik Campsite- the campground is beautiful, well-kept and boasts views of the steely ocean. A community building is available for cooking, hanging out, and wifi access. We did not make reservations here- there was ample vacancy when we arrived, but we noticed that the campground filled up as the evening wore on. We paid about $14USD per person to stay the night in Grindavik.
The Golden Circle
The Golden Circle, not to be confused with the Ring Road, is a 190 mile trek, doable in one day from Reykjavik. It's also possible to take longer, especially if you want to linger at each magnificent natural wonder and take your time soaking in the hot springs. This driving tour was quite touristy in that it was more crowded that any other area we experienced in Iceland, aside from Reykjavik, but it was 100% worth it. There is a reason it's called the Golden Circle- some of Iceland's most spectacular natural features can be found along this accessible road. My only advice, other than making the decision to drive all the way to Gulfoss, is to spend sunset at Laugarvatn Fontana. Take a look at our favorite stops along the Golden Circle:
- Geysir - Two incredible geysers are located at this stop, including Geysir (for which all other geysers are named) and Strokkur. Strokkur erupts every 10 minutes or so, up to 100 ft. When we were there a couple was posing for wedding photos in front of Strokkur!
- Gullfoss - This giant waterfall, located at the furthest tip of the Golden Circle from Reykjavik, has been named the most beautiful in the whole country. It has convenient facilities nearby, including a cafe and gift shop. The mist created by the falls is serious- wear your rain jacket and rain pants.
- Gamla Laugin AKA Secret Lagoon - a hidden gem with a hot soaking pool, just off the beaten path. We spent up to two hours soaking and relaxing in the steam.
- Reykjadalur AKA "Steam Valley" - This is Iceland's "hot river." You can soak in the river after a short hike along a clearly marked trail.
- Laugarvatn Fontana - a modern, lakeside facility with soaking pools and a sauna
- Thingvellir National Park - hotspot for Icelandic history, geological wonders (including waterfalls and shifting tectonic plates), and hiking trails
- Efstidalur Farm - creamery, restaurant, hotel
- Consider stealth camping along the side of the road or Héraðsskólinn Hostel near Laugarvatn
Neat Guided Trips to Iceland
I generally prefer creating my own itinerary and deciding where to go and when. But! A few trips to Iceland have caught my eye over the past year, and these are the most intriguing (to me) out there: