Adventure Honeymoon in Iceland Part II: The Ring Road
Quick Reference
Reason to go: Waterfalls, hot springs, vast landscapes, and generally, an amazing experience on an incredible piece of earth. This is my all-time favorite road trip.
Where we stayed: In our Snail Motor Homes camper van! In campsites! That we decided on as we drove! Here is the list of towns/campgrounds we stayed in on our journey: Grindavik (Night 1), Hólmavík (Night 2), Hamrar (Night 3), Egilsstaðir (Night 4), Hofn (Night 5), Vik (Night 6), Somewhere on the Golden Circle (Night 7). Find these sites on my interactive map and learn more about each spot.
Map: The Ring Road is easy to find- it's the one that circumnavigates the island that is Iceland. It's also known as Route 1. Click the map to see all of my favorite spots, where we camped, and our route!
Permits & Reservations: The only reservation we made for the whole trip was for our camper van from Snail Motor Homes and for our ticket to the Blue Lagoon (you can read about our Blue Lagoon experience in Iceland Part I).
Time to visit and weather: May-September. Iceland is cold, snowy, and dark in the winter. Driving the Ring Road is recommended in the summer months when roads are most reliable.
Emergency #s and Land Managers: You can look up Reyjavik's emergency response information here.
Cell service: We did not have cell service or purchase a SIM card in-country. We utilized wifi each evening at a campsite, cafe, or restaurant. We did not wish we had cell service- finding wifi along the road was sufficient.
Vehicle needs: We travelled on some roads & through some rivers that made us thankful for our four-wheel drive. I'd recommend it if you want to leave the main highway to explore. Our Snail Van got us through everything we wanted to do (we were in the "Snail Micro").
Best Coffee: Hotel Aldan in Seyðisfjörður and Geirabakari Kaffihus in Borgarnes.
Trip highlights: Akureyri (the "Capital of the North"), Mývatn Nature Baths, Hólmavík (home of the The Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft Museum), Seyðisfjörður, Skógafoss Waterfall, Fagrifoss Waterfall, Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, and last but not least, exploring a new place with no agenda except to see as much as possible!
What to pack: Pack everything that you would for a typical, cool-weather backpacking trip, to include waterproof layers, good hiking shoes, camp shoes, warm synthetic layers, hats, gloves, warm socks, and long johns. I packed some cotton sleepwear and a few pieces of "city clothes" for walking around town. My most-worn piece of clothing on this trip were my Prana fleece-lined Halle Pants.
Favorite Blogs/Resources that helped me plan: Expert Vagabond, the Blonde Abroad, Alex Cornell Blog and my Lonely Planet paperback travel guide.
Ring Road Trip: FAQ (these are the questions I had about the journey while planning)
- Which way should we travel (clockwise or counter clockwise?)? We had originally planned to drive counter-clockwise and explore South Iceland first, allowing us to see some of the sights we were most excited about right away (to include Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, the puffins of Vík, and some of the waterfalls we were excited to explore like Skógafoss). When we arrived, however, our plans changed when a big storm moved through South Iceland. Instead of braving the rain and wind, we chose to head north and west instead and travel clockwise. So, does it matter which way you drive? I sincerely believe the answer is "no," because any way you drive the Ring Road is a good way. I did, however, enjoy cruising to the West Fjords right away- they are said to the be the least travelled region of Iceland, and gave us a feeling of solitude, wildness, and adventure right away as we drove away from Reykjavik.
- How many hours should-I/do-I-need-to drive each day? Of course, this depends on how many days you have. We averaged four hours/day for eight days.
- How many days do I need to drive the Ring Road? At least a week to comfortably see everything you want to, leaving room for impromptu exploring.
- What grocery & gas re-supply options exist on the Ring Road? Lots of grocery store options exist, as well as cafes and restaurants. We weren't always happy with the gluten free options each store stocked, so if you have dietary restrictions, stock up in Reykjavik. Best practice is to fill up your gas tank whenever you have an opportunity to. We chose to do that and were never in a nerve-racking, "on E" situation.
- Do I need to make reservations for campsites, hostels, etc.? You probably should, especially because Iceland is becoming quite the travel destination. We never needed to make reservations for our campsites, although some were quite busy. We were never turned away due to no/low vacancy.
- How can I charge my phone, camera, etc.? Our van came with a usb port included on the stereo system. We found out pretty quick that while it was handy, it was more of a trickle charge and couldn't keep up with our usage. We brought along our Goal Zero Solar Panel, re-chargeable lantern, and charger pack. With a charge every now and then at a campground or restaurant, we maintained a good charge on our batteries through the trip.
Highlights from Vesturland & the West Fjords (Western Iceland)
Western Iceland has so much to offer and we missed out on a lot of it. Here are our highlights from Reyjavik to the West Fjords.
🍴Geirabakari Kaffihus was our first Icelandic kaffihaus experience outside of Reyjavik. We loved this coffee shop because it was perched inbetween the ocean and a mountain, and we felt like we had really hit the road and starting exploring. We had a few cups of jo and dug into our atlas at a table overlooking the moody sea here. *favorite thing alert*
⛰Grábrók Crater Hike - an easy boardwalk circumnavigates the top of the crater, allowing visitors to see views all around and into the crater itself. It's the perfect place to stop and stretch your legs.
🚙Driving Highway 61 from Reykholar to Hólmavík - this drive was wild and lonely. We were the only ones out there on the road, along with some curious sheep and a winding river to our left. Every piece of road in the West Fjords made us feel like adventurers!
⛺️Hólmavík town & campsite - our campsite overlooked a peaceful bay and the grocery store was within walking distance of the campground, making it easy for us to set up camp and walk to town. You pay for the campsite at the local pool. The grocery store, while charming, had no clear gluten free options, so we headed into town for dinner. I hear that Cafe Riis is the place to eat in town these days. We found food at the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. *favorite thing alert*
🔮The Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft - if you enjoy Harry Potter even a little bit, you'll love this special museum full of weird goodness.
🚙Driving Highway 68 from Hólmavík back to Route 1 - we wound our way up and down fjords on the mostly dirt road, stopping to take photos of farms, waterfalls, sheep, and churches. There's not much on this stretch and you feel like you have Iceland all to yourself.
🍴Hladan Kaffihus in Hvammstangi - a cozy cafe overlooking the harbor. Free wifi, kind locals, and great coffee can be found here.
🔬Icelandic Seal Center is a research and exhibition center investigating and detailing the lives of seals found in and around Iceland. It also has a sweet gift shop that any animal-lover would appreciate.
Highlights from Norðurland (Northern Iceland)
Northern Iceland offered us tranquil wilderness & beautiful summer weather in late August. Akureyri, the Capital of the North, is Iceland's second largest city and the northernmost capital city in the world. Although it feels rural and hard-to-get-to, the world proved to us how small it really is when we ran into one of Kevin's teachers from high school in a book store! Here are our highlights from Norðurland.
- 🌃Akureyri has culture. Shopping, restaurants, art, a charming downtown, cafes, bars, hostels, hotels, hiking, and skiing, all on a beautiful fjord. We spent several hours walking around, exploring the streets and shops.
- 💰The Viking - a not-to-miss, classic souvenir shop with two life-sized trolls out front. It's the perfect photo opp.
- 🍻Akureyri Backpackers Hostel - "Your basecamp up north." This is the spot to go if you want to party. Backpackers from all over the world gather here at the homey bar for beers and cocktails. It's a family run, cozy, college-vibe hangout.
- 🍴Bláa Kannan offers gluten free dessert and great people watching from their tables by the front windows! They're known for their fancy coffee drinks and bright blue exterior.
- ⛪Akureyrarkirkja - the Church that overlooks the city of Akureyri. The church is a well-known symbol of the city. The stain glass windows are a sight to see.
- ⛺️Hamrar Campsite - one of our favorite campsites of the whole trip! It is situated outside of Akureyri in the Forest Kjarnaskógur, making you feel like you are in the wilderness more than some other campsites we stayed in. The facilities were clean and not crowded, and the hot water was plentiful for a great shower. The campsite itself is huge, so we didn't have any neighbors. *favorite thing alert*
- 💦Goðafoss Waterfall - a spectacular, powerful waterfall. It's named for the moment in history when Iceland declared itself a Christian nation and statues of Norse Gods were thrown into the waterfall. *favorite thing alert*
- 🏊Mývatn Nature Baths - the "Blue Lagoon of the North." But with more dramatic views and less crowded! *favorite thing alert*
- 🍴Vogafjos Farm Resort - a guest house and restaurant, overlooking Lake Mývatn and a field of cows. We enjoyed lunch here after soaking in the Nature Baths.
- 🐋Húsavík is "the Whale Capital of Iceland." Whale watching charters depart from this port town. We did not participate in the whale watching, but we loved walking around the adorable town, grabbing coffee, and taking photos of all the fishing boats.
- 💦Dettifoss Waterfall - "the Most Powerful Waterfall in Europe." When you see it, you won't doubt it. It's spectacular and almost angry looking. Make sure you wear your waterproof on this trail!
Highlights from Austurland (Eastern Iceland)
Eastern Iceland was a turning point in our trip- Iceland seemed to get busier in this region. It didn't lose any magic or majesty, though. Eastern Iceland is close to mainland Europe, and we saw a lot more European influence and culture on this side than West or North Iceland. Here are our highlights.
- ⛺️Egilsstadir Camping Site - a simple campsite in a small town. It was inexpensive and comfortable. This was more a place to crash rather than a destination in it's own right.
- 💦Gufufoss Waterfall - as you descend, down Highway 93 towards Seyðisfjörður, you'll follow a river and eventually that river turns into Gufufoss. It's right on the side of the road and too beautiful not to stop and enjoy it for a spell.
- ✨Seyðisfjörður - my favorite town in Iceland. They self-describe as "Quirky, Charming, Fun, Funky, Lively, Lovely, Different, Friendly, Creative, Historic, Peaceful, Artistic, Beautiful, Open Minded, Active, Bohemian, Natural, Special" and I don't disagree. Come here to walk the colorful streets, enjoy a latte, and stare off into the wild surroundings peppered with silver falls. Be sure to walk down the rainbow road while you're there! *favorite thing alert*
- ⛪Bláa Kirkjan or Seyðisfjarðarkirkja - "The Blue Church." A landmark and gorgeous photo opp.
- ☕️Hótel Aldan - this guesthouse has a lovely cafe with picnic tables outside for soaking in some Eastern Iceland sunshine. *favorite thing alert*
- 🍻Skaftfell Bistro - a popular bar/cafe for backpackers waiting to board the ferry to Scandinavia. Free wifi and a good beer selection.
Highlights from Suðurland (Southern Iceland)
Southern Iceland is characterized by sprawling, desolate beaches and wide gravel bars carved out by glacial flows. This region is overflowing with gorgeous natural features- beaches, waterfalls, lagoons, and canyons. Here are my highlights:
💦Seljalandsfoss Waterfall is a gorgeous fall just off Route 1. Visitors can walk all the way around it as long as they've got rain gear! Because this fall is so accessible, it gets quite a bit of foot traffic.
💦Skógafoss Waterfall is another amazing fall right off Route 1- visitors can walk right up to the fall, where you can really feel the cold power of the water. There is also a trail that takes you to the top of the falls at ÿkógafoss, where you can see the peaceful river flowing through pasture land before it flows over the cliff.
⛺️Vik is small town well-known for it's hill top church, bus depot, and 24-hour wool sweater shop. Vik Campsite is where we stayed in Vik- we enjoyed the spacious field for camping and warm common building for cooking dinner and charging our phones.
💡Dyrhólaey Lighthouse is a small peninsula with an arch. Puffins live and play on the cliffs!
⛪Vik i Myrdal Church is the hilltop church that looks over the town of Vik.
⛰Fjarðarárgljúfur Canyon - an incredible, moody canyon that has been carved out by a serpentine river, offering one of the most incredible views of our time in Southern Iceland.
💦Fagrifoss Waterfall - my favorite waterfall in Iceland. It's been described as bewitching- probably because the silver water falls over slick black rock, and you have to work to get here. We drove on a 4x4 road for a few miles and through two rivers to see it. We were rewarded with enjoying this magical place without any other visitors. *favorite thing alert*
⛲️Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon is known as "Iceland's Crown Jewel." It is truly like nothing else I have seen. We arrived early in the morning, and as I understand it, that is the time to visit this ghostly site. Get there before the drone-flyers arrive, before the zodiaks full of tourists enter the lagoon, and the busloads from Reykjavik take over the cafe and mess with the quiet magic. The black beaches on either side of the lagoon are just as cool- you'll find big chunks of clear, turquoise ice washing up on shore. *favorite thing alert*
💦Skaftafell National Park & Svartifoss Waterfall - experience one of Iceland's popular national parks.
🍴Kaffi Hornið is a cozy restaurant with a variety of langoutine dishes in Hofn with seafood options and Einstok on the menu.
⛺️Hofn Campsite - we camped in Hofn at the town campsite. We arrived on a busy, windy evening when the common area was crowded and every plug was in use! The view of Vatnajökull Glacier from our van was worth tolerating the crowds and enduring the wind!
What we missed out on, but would definitely do next time...
We were so excited to hop in our van and hit the road when we arrived that we headed north without much planning and missed some great things along the way. I partially blame us missing out on the places below because we had originally planned to travel around the Ring Road counter clockwise, and I had detailed plans for south Iceland, but nothing set for western and northern Iceland! So, we played it by ear and found some amazing goodness, but we missed out on things too.
- Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Kirkjufell Mountain.
- Exploring the West Fjords beyond Hólmavík, to include Hornstrandir Nature Reserve and Dynjandi Waterfall. When we go back, I'd like to spend a week exploring the West Fjords! I definitely have Tjöruhúsið restaurant on my list in Ísafjörður for seafood.
- Ending our trip with a second dip in the Blue Lagoon before our flight back to the US.
- We typically steer clear of guided experiences because we like to explore independently, but when we return I will look into glacier walks on Vatnajökull.
- The Highlands, including Landmannalaugar and hiking the Laugavegur trail to Þórsmörk.
Check out my Iceland Part I blog on Reykjavik and the Golden Circle to read more about Southeast Iceland!